The Fabulous Ganesh!

My first Indian festival and first real experience of Hinduism!

DISCLAIMER: This blog post explores my own personal experience of the festival with some facts gleaned after confusing conversations involving basic English and gesturing - therefore it cannot be taken as a fully accurate account of Hinduism.

The festival is called Ganesh Chaturthi began on the 9th of September and lasted 10 days.

The story of this elephant headed god is an interesting one. I've only heard sections so far but here's the whole tale courtesy of good old wikipedia:

"Lord Ganesha was created by goddess Parvati consort of Shiva. She created Ganesha out of sandalwood paste that she used for her bath and breathed life into the figure. She then set him to stand guard at her door while she bathed. Lord Shiva, who had gone out, returned and as Ganesha didn't know him, didn't allow him to enter. Lord Shiva became enraged by this and asked his follower Ganas to teach the child some manners. Ganesha who was very powerful, being born of Parvati, the embodiment of Shakti, defeated Shiva's followers and declared that nobody was allowed to enter while his mother was bathing. The sage of heavens, Narada along with the Saptarishis sensed the growing turmoil and went to appease the boy with no results. Angered, the king of Gods, Indra attacked the boy with his entire heavenly army but even they didn't stand a chance. By then, this issue had become a matter of pride for Parvati and Shiva. Angry Shiva severed the head of the child. Parvati seeing this became enraged. Seeing Parvati in anger Shiva promised that her son will be alive again. The devas searched for the head of dead person facing North. But they found only the head of a dead elephant. They brought the head of the elephant and Shiva fixed it on the child's body and brought him back to life. Lord Shiva also declared that from this day the boy would be called Ganesha."

Quite an origin story. I now finally understand why he has an elephant's head. 

We had Monday off as the festival began. I was excited to witness the spectacle and was lucky enough to experience the setting up beforehand. a ramshackle set of metal poles were set up and some tables by the students and some adults then sheets were spread over the top to create a nice tent known as a Pandal. 

Our School's Pandal 

This was to be Ganesha's residence for the festival. Decorations were hung - fairy lights, pictures and Mango leaves. Then he arrived into the tent (after  waiting from yesterday with his face covered.) 

Ta Dah! Quite a countenance! 

He was placed over an area which had a Rangoli pattern and over which Padma (our link person) had blessed rice and placed leaves. Then he was sanctified with turmeric paste and a red spice, Kumkuma, which was dotted on various parts. Garlands of fresh flowers were laid over him and different fruits were given as offerings.  In his left hand  he held a sweet called Laddu covered in gold leaf and his right a fresh water Lily. 

Pramatala, a mother of a pupil who lives with him at the school and works in the Kitchen, was busy coating string in turmeric and tying leave onto the threads. These were later worn by bracelets by people to for protection and blessings. 

Ganesha! So colorful!

Then the first Puja (worship) began. The initial part is known as the Pranapratishhtha. A CD played the mantras to invoke the presence of Ganesha using the statue as a vessel. The mantras were chanted by everyone including the kids. 

Each worshiper had turmeric smeared on their chin and Kumkuma dotted on their foreheads. Me included.

Me Turmeric-ing Pramatala's chin. Note my ginger beard!

 

Pupil with the Kumkuma dot. She led me through a lot of the Puja! 

Then offerings were made. Dry rice was thrown at him and water was put on a leaf then sprinkled over him.Flowers were shoved in every nook and cranny. Coconuts were violently smashed off a brick (with varying degrees of success) the water drained with a little being splashed over him then the fruit was offered. Later a portion of the coconut water was poured into people's right hands to be drunk immediately. 

Giving flowers as offerings

Incense was lit and the smoke wafted over him then the worshipers. A small metal oil lamp was also lit and wafted over him then the worshipers wafted the smoke to their eyes before praying. 

Lighting the Oil lamps

Throughout Puja bowl of food were sitting in front of Ganesha. After the ritual was complete each person was given a handful of Prasanum (sanctified food). This commonly took the form of Chickpeas, Coconut and some yellow seeds with sugar. This also serves a function beyond nutrition, spiritual nourishment. I was told that eating it would give me some of Ganesha's strength and blessings. 

Pre-blessed food! Tasty!

Anna and I were encouraged to join in the Puja. This was great and gave us a real insight into the rituals. 

Yes that's a Balaclava

We also had many sweets during the festival, especially for puddings. Ganesha has a sweet tooth it seems! Anna and I were lucky enough to be involved in the making of Ganesha's favorite sweet.Dough was rolled into chunky "snakes". My playdough skills came into their own. Then the dough was boiled and served in a thick sweet gloopy sauce. Hard to eat with your hands. We also ate many other types of desserts but I won't make you hungry by describing them all now. Although Laddu proved to be a favorite.

There was also music courtesy of the CD player. The music was fun and exciting and very Indian. Sadly, the music was played very loudly from 6am. Then at midnight drum processions went through the local streets. Certainly not a quiet festival!  

Padma explained why Ganesha's statue came to the school. His presence brought protection and blessings. The twice daily Pujas gave him strength to continue. After 10 days he is returned to the earth by immersion in a river.

Padma and her Husband praying

Statues are dumped in the Hussain Sagar lake (which is famous for it's Buddah statue - multiculturalism!). Around 55,000 each year. Sadly we were unable to witness it first hand as it's far too crowded and dangerous.

Cranes were used to dump larger statues. Not my picture. Note the crowds! 

However, we did get to say  bye to Ganesha. He was carried out by some male staff members and a few older boys. Some kids came with and danced through the streets chanting "Ganesha". He was deposited in Mayuri Marg's biggest Pandal with a 10 foot Ganesha. All the people who live on the street had deposited their Ganeshas there too. They were all later put on a lorry and taken to the lake. We returned to the school where a party was happening. Anna and I danced with the kids. Saw some crazy dance moves that night! 

 The next day as Anna and I walked along the pavement next to the Dual carriageway, returning lorries devoid of Deities but covered in revelers drove past. They all called and waved to us which was funny.

During the festival the local Telegu newspapers features lots of pictures of various Ganeshas. It was interesting to see the various artistic styles and use of materials. Some shown were made of food, one was even made of pills for a local hospital. Very creative.

Another Ganesha who came to join the festivities. Different style and design. 

The newspaper also mentioned frequently the environmental impact of the festival. For me, especially as after this Gap Year I'm going to study Sustainable Development, this was very interesting. The annual dumping of over 55,000 statues in the lake is obviously not good for the environment and lake ecosystem. There was many reports in the newspaper of the environmental dangers of Plaster of Paris which does not biodegrade. They reported the benefits of Clay statues which broke down in the water. These messages were accompanied by local celebs endorsing the idea. I'm glad there is an environmental awareness around the festival and many people are trying to be responsible for the ecosystem. 

I found the idea of a physical embodiment of a God to be very interesting. There are apparent benefits to worshiping a visible, tangible god and be able to give offerings to him. I enjoyed having the opportunity to join in the celebrations and be part of the rituals. 

Overall the festival was fun and interesting. I'm very grateful to have been able to experience it all first hand.